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Constructing Collars With Collar Stands
à la Belinda & Debbie

With Inspiration By and Thanks Also To Australian Stitches and David Coffin

 

Cut out two collar stands and two collars. Interface per pattern instructions. Stay stitch the neck edge of the garment just inside the seam allowance.

 

With right sides together, stitch collar pieces together at sides and top. Leave the bottom unstitched. Clip corners, press seams open, trim to 1/4" and turn. Press collar flat.

Topstitch collar on right side 1/8" to 1/4" from edge. (The actual distance isn't as important as maintaining consistent topstitching throughout the garment.)

With right sides together, BASTE collar stands together along the top edge, between the stands' shaped edges. Press seam open, turn and press collar stand flat. Remove basting stitches.

"Sandwich" the two collar stands around the neck edge of the garment, with centers aligned and the Right Sides of the stands facing inward toward the garment. You may need to clip the neck edge curve of the garment so it lays flat. Take care not to stretch too much so as not to distort the length. Pin or "glue baste" the stands in place (washable glue stick or Glue Pins).

Using your fingernail, feel through the collar stands to where the garment edges end. Mark this point. See red vertical lines below. Stitch the collar stand to garment right up to these points but without going past them. Press seams flat and trim to 1/4". Turn stands Wrong Sides Together and press. Be careful to keep earlier basting/pressing along top edge of stands undisturbed.

Working at one edge of collar stand, fold garment up and out of the way. Pin in place. Repeat for other side.

Fold the stands' Right Sides back down over the garment neck. Using paper or cardboard, create a template for the stand's curved ends. Align the template at one garment edge, as shown. With pencil, chalk or washable pen, trace the shape onto the stand. Repeat for the other side. If desired, pin or glue baste stand ends into place in preparation for stitching.

Set a small stitch length and accurately stitch along these marks. Be sure to keep the garment edges folded out of the way. Trim seam allowances to between 1/16" and 1/8". Turn collar stand, wiggle the end seams into place, and press collar stand flat. Remember to reset your stitch length!

Insert collar between stands. Glue baste stands to collar, making sure to keep stand top edges aligned. Edge stitch 1/8" from edge, starting at the back neck area and continuing around the entire stand. (This area will be covered by the collar and so any starting/stopping points will be hidden.)

Belinda's method: Sew the collar to one of the stands. Fold under the seam allowance on the other stand and stitch in place using only a few pins. There is no need to glue baste as you can use the first stitching as a guide. Complete the edgestitching.

 

Sit back, take a deep breath and admire your perfect collar!