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First and foremost -- pick the pattern sized based on your UPPER BUST measurement, if your bra cup size is more than B. Slash the bodice, as shown in pink, leaving pivot points at the armhole and bust point. Bust dart center fold line is extended to bust point before slashing. If using a pattern with seam allowances included, the armhole pivot point should be at the sewing line, not the cutting line. |
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Spread the bodice apart the distance needed to meet the pattern piece center front to your center front, or the difference between your full bust measurement and pattern full bust measurement (per envelope), keeping the vertical and horizontal spreads parallel to the slash lines. A full bust alteration will add length under the bust dart. Move bottom center piece straight downward to match pattern waist, and true seamline. Add tissue behind pattern to "fill in." The armhole remains the same length so no adjustment to sleeve is required. |
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Adjusting Skirt,
Method 1 Measure the bodice waist and slash/spread the skirt waist to match. Add tissue behind pattern to "fill in." Move dart point 1-1/2" to 2" away from bust point and true dart. |
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Method 1, Finished Pattern |
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Adjusting for
the Skirt, Method 2 Measure the bodice waist on the pattern piece. Measure the skirt waist on the pattern piece and subtract this measurement from the larger bodice waist measurement. I'll call this "waist adjustment amount." Extend bust dart legs to bust point and cut out bust dart as shown in pink. Create a new waist dart by slashing pattern as shown by the vertical blue line. Keep a pivot point where the bust dart and waist slash intersect. (Hit "Stop" on your browser to stop the animation; "Refresh" to re-start it.) Partially close the bust dart by spreading the waist dart slash in an amount equal to twice the "waist adjustment amount." (Twice the amount, because the dart will be folded in half when sewn.) This will open a new waist dart. Add tissue behind pattern to "fill in" and true darts as illustrated below. |
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Method 2, Finished Pattern If the dress skirt has been drafted with a waist dart, align bodice and skirt waist darts. |