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This is the pattern I started with, the coral crossover view, adding the flounced sleeves from the print top.
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The pattern pieces are full front, and differ from each other because of the gathers on one side. To save some time, I pinned the pieces right sides together, aligning at the shoulder, armhole, and neckline seams.
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I then made my usual Full Bust Adjustment to both front pattern pieces at the same time.
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Next, I filled in with tissue on one side, leaving the bust dart open because I'll be rotating it later.
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Then I flipped the pieces over and filled in with tissue on the other side.
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Before rotating the bust dart, I needed to adjust for my square shoulders ...
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... and narrow shoulders.
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Next, I slashed from the middle of the shoulder to the bust point.
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I closed the bust dart, which opened up the shoulder slash, thus rotating the dart to the shoulder area.
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Since this dart is to be "sewn" as gathers, I filled in the dart area with tissue and trued the shoulder seam, following the curve as on the original pattern piece. Done! (Wasn't that easy?)
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Below is how I created the same pattern in the Pattern Editor module of Pattern Master Boutique 3. My custom pattern from the software and my altered version of the New Look pattern are quite similar.
Step 1: Create a forward shoulder seam by removing from the front shoulder and adding to the back. Diagrams 1, 2, 3. Step 2: Extend the bust dart (4) to the bust point (5). Step 3: Slash at the center of the shoulder seam and rotate the bust dart closed. True the shoulder seam. Diagrams 6, 7, 8. Step 4: Mirror the resulting pattern to create a full front pattern piece. Diagrams 9 and 10. Step 5: Extend the center front neckline to create the start of a suplice front. Diagram 11. Step 6: Delete one armhole/shoulder area and duplicate/mirror the pattern piece. Diagrams 11 and a. Step 7: On one front, create a slash line as in Diagram 12. Step 8: Slash and rotate below the slash line to create additional fabric for gathering into the sideseam. The final front pattern pieces are shown as "a" and "b".
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The finished top. |
