Debbie's Sewing Projects
The LuLinda Blouse
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I call this the LuLinda blouse because I freely "borrowed" from Helen's "Lulu" instructions here, and Belinda's collared vee instructions here. (Note these links are to PDF files and may take some time to download completely.) I won't rephrase their instructions here because theirs are already very thorough.

Thank you for generously sharing your knowledge ladies! I couldn't have done it without you.

 

 

I started with a classic blouse with bust and waist darts and button placket.

Because Helen's instructions do not take into account a very full bust, I had to figure out a way to add more bust room without destroying the style lines of the blouse.

I wish I could say that I have a scientific method but I really just winged it and guessed my best! In the end, I measured from the bust point down to come up with a radius for my circle.

However, I wasn't positive that this measurement would give me enough bust room, so I second-guessed myself and added a bit extra. As I found out after sewing the muslin, I didn't need the extra and the empire seam was about an inch too low. Whoops. For the final draft, I decreased the radius of the circle by about one inch, taking it back to my actual measurement.

 

 

Next, following Helen's Lulu blouse instructions, I drew a line for the empire seam, making another "by eye" adjustment from Helen's instructions because my bust is bigger and lower than hers. I estimated on the draft how far down from the armhole I wanted the empire seam to start and then drew a line that curved around my bust circle. As you can see in the next drawing below, I changed my first guess and started the actual seam closer to the armhole.

Still following Helen's instructions, I then split the bodice at that new seam line.

The next step was to rotate the bust dart closed and true the empire seam.

 

Next, I extended the waist dart up to the empire seam, centering it under my bust point.

 

 

I wanted to add more width and thus a bit more gathering to the upper bodice. So, I slashed in four places using a point in the armhole as my pivot point. The drawing above shows my slashes.

 

I pivoted each section separately, 1/2 inch. The red lines represent the areas of the pattern which were pivoted. The blue lines remained stationary.

 

This drawing shows the results of pivoting the first "section."

 

This drawing shows all the slashes spread and pivoted. There were 4 pivots in total, adding 2 inches to the empire seam. In hindsight, I would probably add less next time -- maybe a total of 1-1/4 inches. Or, I will convert the extra width to sewn vertical darts for another look.

After all the pivots were complete, I trued the seam line, shown in pink.

 

These are my final pattern pieces for my "muslin." As you can see, I altered the neckline following Belinda's instructions for a collared vee. I deviated from Belinda's instructions by slashing the final vee collar bodice to add a sewn-on placket because I didn't want the empire seam to cross the placket. The facing remains the same from Belinda's instructions, although for my next LuLinda blouse I will widen the facing 1/2 inch so that on the wrong side it completely covers the seam where the placket attaches to the bodice. With a bit more width, the facing can then be secured when the placket is edgestitched and it will enclose the seam where it's attached to the bodice.

 

Here are my initial PMB3 settings, in case you're curious.