| Back to Index |
|
I call this the LuLinda blouse because I freely "borrowed" from Helen's "Lulu" instructions here, and Belinda's collared vee instructions here. (Note these links are to PDF files and may take some time to download completely.) I won't rephrase their instructions here because theirs are already very thorough. Thank you for generously sharing your knowledge ladies! I couldn't have done it without you.
|
|
|
|
I started with a classic blouse with bust and waist darts and button placket. Because Helen's instructions do not take into account a very full bust, I had to figure out a way to add more bust room without destroying the style lines of the blouse. I wish I could say that I have a scientific method but I really just winged it and guessed my best! In the end, I measured from the bust point down to come up with a radius for my circle. However, I wasn't positive that this measurement would give me enough bust room, so I second-guessed myself and added a bit extra. As I found out after sewing the muslin, I didn't need the extra and the empire seam was about an inch too low. Whoops. For the final draft, I decreased the radius of the circle by about one inch, taking it back to my actual measurement.
|
|
|
Next, following Helen's Lulu blouse instructions, I drew a line for the empire seam, making another "by eye" adjustment from Helen's instructions because my bust is bigger and lower than hers. I estimated on the draft how far down from the armhole I wanted the empire seam to start and then drew a line that curved around my bust circle. As you can see in the next drawing below, I changed my first guess and started the actual seam closer to the armhole. Still following Helen's instructions, I then split the bodice at that new seam line. The next step was to rotate the bust dart closed and true the empire seam. |
|
|
Next, I extended the waist dart up to the empire seam, centering it under my bust point.
|
|
I wanted to add more width and thus a bit more gathering to the upper bodice. So, I slashed in four places using a point in the armhole as my pivot point. The drawing above shows my slashes. |
|
![]()
I pivoted each section separately, 1/2 inch. The red lines represent the areas of the pattern which were pivoted. The blue lines remained stationary.
|
|
![]() This drawing shows the results of pivoting the first "section."
|
|
![]() This drawing shows all the slashes spread and pivoted. There were 4 pivots in total, adding 2 inches to the empire seam. In hindsight, I would probably add less next time -- maybe a total of 1-1/4 inches. Or, I will convert the extra width to sewn vertical darts for another look. |
|
![]() After all the pivots were complete, I trued the seam line, shown in pink.
|
|
|
These are my final pattern pieces for my "muslin." As you can see, I altered the neckline following Belinda's instructions for a collared vee. I deviated from Belinda's instructions by slashing the final vee collar bodice to add a sewn-on placket because I didn't want the empire seam to cross the placket. The facing remains the same from Belinda's instructions, although for my next LuLinda blouse I will widen the facing 1/2 inch so that on the wrong side it completely covers the seam where the placket attaches to the bodice. With a bit more width, the facing can then be secured when the placket is edgestitched and it will enclose the seam where it's attached to the bodice.
|
|
|
Here are my initial PMB3 settings, in case you're curious. |
|