Version 1
Fabric: Tricot with stretch in one direction, powernet band.
This was drafted using Curves 2, and my exact measurements. The fit isn't
terrible, but it could be a lot better. There is too much sag, not enough
support from the lower half of the bra. The cups are set too far apart
(east-west syndrome). The strap placement is too high to provide adequate
support. The band drafts extremely long.
Fabric: Stretch satin, stretch in both directions, with more stretch widthwise, and powernet band.
This was drafted using Curves 3, my exact measurements, and "round" setting. This is almost the same bra as Version 1, and has many of the same problems as well as the top cups being too loose. I used a 100% horizontal stretch factor for the band, but it still drafted too long. I took "tucks" under the armpit.
Fabric: Tricot with stretch in one direction, non-stretch lace, and powernet band.
This was drafted using Curves 3, "roundest" setting, with my measurements tweaked as follows.
1. Bust radius was increased to put more volume into the lower cup.
2. Bra band was shortened and reshaped in Pattern Editor. I shortened it the amount I tucked in Version 2, plus another 1/2" to allow for future stretch.
3. Strap Placement was moved toward center front and Upper Cup Depth setting was reduced. The lower the strap is attached, the more support from the cup instead of the strap.
Curves drafts the lower cups for stretch to run horizontal. With the stretch in this direction, the lower cup doesn't provide as much support as it would if the stretch ran vertically. To increase support, I lined the bottom cups with self-fabric, cutting the outer cup with the stretch running vertically and the lining cups with the stretch running horizontally. This increased the support, but the top cup is still too full and the seam is too low.
The lace at the top is non-stretch lace, sewn on with moderate ease to allow for breast tissue expansion without bulges.
Version 4
Fabric: Stretch satin, stretch in both directions, with more stretch widthwise,
stretch lace, and powernet band.
This was drafted using Curves 3, "roundest" setting, with my
measurements tweaked as follows.
1. Bra Bust Point was decreased to produce a shallower upper cup, thereby
making the center seam higher in the bra.
2. To balance the decreased Bra Bust Point, the Bust Radius measurement
was lowered even more than Version 3, in an amount equal to the decrease
of the Bra Bust Point. This kept the cups more or less symmetrical. Although
the lower cup appears much fuller than previous versions, when worn it
creates a rounder, more upright and youthful shape, with the seam crossing
directly over the apex.
3. The edited bra band from Version 3 was used for Version 4.
4. The center piece width at the top was increased a small amount for
ease of sewing underwire casing.
5. Lower cups were self-lined as in Version 3.
6. Strap placement was moved more toward center.
The lace at the top is stretch lace, sewn on at a 1:1 ratio. The lace
has nearly the same stretch factor and direction as the upper cup, allowing
for the expansion of the breast tissue without bulges.
The underwires needed were too long for this draft and so a slightly shorter
pair was substituted. The wrinkles are not due to fit, just spots of bad/hurried
sewing.
Version 5
Fabric: Stretch satin, stretch in both directions, with more stretch widthwise,
and powernet band. Wide stretch lace with stretch in both directions,
cut in "half" and then appliqued to cups with a small zigzag
stitch.
This was drafted using Curves 3, "roundest" setting, using virtually
the same chart as Version 4, and with the following changes to settings:
1. Upper cup depth increased 1/2".
2. Center piece narrowed using the horizontal stretch scale factor of
100%.
3. Bust Curve was increased to add length for the correct underwires.
However, this did NOT work and the finished length was still too short.
I will increase the centerpiece height 1/2" to compensate for the
additional wire length, but I think this is a program glitch and I will
report it.
Little Things I've Learned
1. Fabric with stretch in only one direction doesn't work for me. When supported correctly, my breasts are round and full. For the more rounded look I prefer (versus oval or pointy), my bras need that extra little "give" that a knit with 4-way stretch provides. I'm going to weed out my bra fabric stash with this in mind.
2. Ditto for lace that has no stretch. This doesn't work great for me at the top of cups because I need the stretch, otherwise I tend to have cup-runneth-over syndrome, which definitely does NOT pass the tee shirt test.
3. My bottom cups must have extra support. For these bras I used the same fabric to line the cup but placed the stretch in the opposite direction. I've also had successful linings with 2-way stretch fabrics like tricot, again running the stretch opposite to the outer layer. I'm also going to eventually experiment with the little "pad" in the lower cup that Anne (Needle Nook) suggested, and with redesigning the cup so that there is a third section near the armpit that runs vertically next to the upper and lower cups.
4. The closer to the top of the cup that the straps are attached, the more support in the cup. Also, the further out toward the armpit that the straps are placed, the more "push up" effect you'll see. I don't need this, so this is a no-go for me. But I think I know how to make a Wonderbra now. LOL!
5. Do stabilize the
center piece so that there is NO stretch whatsoever.
6. Even if you don't plan to cut apart a RTW bra for a pattern, you should
study the size and shape of the component pieces, and also the fabric
qualities. Even small variances make a big difference in fit and shaping.
For instance, on the last Elan
bra I made, while the cups are similar to my good from-RTW pattern
(Flames),
there is just enough difference so that basically the same size Elan doesn't
fit me correctly. Once I really compared the Elan to my Flames pattern,
I could see that the narrower pieces of the Elan at the armpit weren't
providing the support and containment I need there.
7. Print a pattern piece for each section and cut single layer. I printed four cup pieces (outer cup and lining x 2), two bands, one center piece. I lightly sprayed the back of the pattern pieces with water-soluable temporary spray adhesive and stuck them on the fabric. No pins!
8. Last, but not least
... read the manual! Especially the section "Judging the Fit of the
Bra Sloper." And if you've upgraded to Version 3, read the Version
3 manual. It has a LOT more information about settings than the Version
2 manual, which I found out *after* I finished my Final Bra. OOops. :)
So, yes, it is possible to create a perfect bra ... as long
as you are willing to sew a few trials along the way to perfect the fit.
The sewing is truly NOT difficult, but it can be frustrating at times
because you do have to sew nearly the entire bra before you know whether
it fits (or not).